“The thrill of my life”

“The thrill of my life”

That’s what Helen Keller said after landing two fair sized trout in Dry Brook in late July, 1935.

The Catskill Mountain News reported July 5 that she had rented “King’s Lodge,” the former Kelly farm, one of the Gould properties, for the summer. With a sizeable staff to attend her, and “thousands of feet of rope stretched around the promises to help her get about unaided,” the woman famous for overcoming blindness, deafness and lack of speech was “enjoying the delightful air of the Dry Brook Valley.”

On August 2, the paper said Niles Fairbairn, legendary local outdoorsman and angler, was invited for a visit and to show her the stream. With the help of a nurse who “conversed with Miss Keller by the deaf and dumb alphabet with fingers touched to the palm of Miss Keller’s hand,” she was taught to swing the fishing rod in a space free from trees and vegetation.

Her first cast hooked an undersized trout which Niles returned to the stream. She next hooked “a large sized native” and “landed the beauty after a ten minute fight.” After a third catch of a good sized trout, she declared she’d had excitement enough for one day, adding “I had the thrill of my life.”

From soldier to fish farmer

From soldier to fish farmer

Research into the lives of Middletown’s Civil War veterans has revealed more than a few intriguing and inventive men behind the uniforms.

Alder Lake with farm house, barn and hatchery

One of those was Julius G. Smith. Born in Glen Aubrey, NY May 18, 1840 to George and Achsa Millard Smith, he was also known as Junious, or just plain June Smith. The family evidently migrated to Delaware County (George and Achsa died in the 1850s and are buried in Woodland Cemetery. Delhi).

Twenty-one-year-old June came to Middletown to enlist in Company E of the 3rd NY Cavalry on August 11, 1861. For four years, he saw plenty of action throughout the Carolinas and Virginia, including the siege of Petersburg. His profile in the 1880 Munsell’s History of Delaware County counts 63 combat engagements. He appears to have escaped unharmed, and was discharged in July of 1865.

June was almost 30 when he married Adelaide (Ada) Jackson, daughter of Luther and Martha Jackson of Dingle Hill in the Town of Andes. The couple first lived with her parents, where June worked on the farm before setting up their own household in Dunraven. There were three children, Irving, Chauncey and Millard.

June Smith must have loved to tinker because he invented what became known as the “June Smith Creamer.” Just what it looked like or did is anyone’s guess – perhaps separated the cream from the milk — but It turns up in farm auction notices and in at least one article in the Catskill Mountain News where a 1947 story about a display of old time farm tools at Bussy’s Store in Margaretville described the “June Smith milk cooler, the patented invention of a Margaretville man.”

 

By the mid-1880s, though, June was more interested in fish than cows. Angling historian Ed VanPut writes in The Beaverkill that June Smith had been a fishing guide since he got out of the Army, and in 1889, traded his Dunraven farm for one carved out of the forest in the Town of Hardenburgh by Asahel and William Bryant. There Smith envisioned a resort to attract wealthy anglers who were coming to fish the nearby Beaverkill.

A partnership with fellow Civil War veteran Charles Odell, a wealthy Pittsburgh steel manufacturer, helped June Smith turn the farm’s Aulder Pond into 55-acre Alder Lake, stocked with native brook trout supplemented with those raised at a hatchery built below the dam. Smith was good at propagating trout, too good perhaps.

The partnership between him and Colonel Odell dissolved in 1891, and Alder Lake became the domain of a private club of wealthy Hudson Valley men. Most prominent among them was Samuel Coykendall, a millionaire railroad and steamboat company owner who ultimately purchased the shares of the other owners, built a three story stone mansion in 1900 and enlarged his estate to 1600 acres.

In 1945, the property passed from the Coykendalls to another private club, and then became a Boy Scout Reservation for Nassau County, LI scout troops. Legendary local outdoorsman Niles Fairbairn was the camp caretaker for many years, living in the Coykendall mansion. The property became part of the State Forest Preserve in 1980. The mansion was razed in recent years.

But back to June Smith.

After Alder Lake, he established Orchard Lake Hatchery on a tributary of the Willowemoc Creek in Sullivan County. Owned by tanner Stoddard Hammond, that hatchery too became a private club for a group of New York City sportsmen.

And so June Smith moved on to Liberty, constructing a third hatchery to sell trout to various fishing clubs and landowners. He was well known for pioneering and advancing this Catskill ‘industry,’ assisted by son Chauncey. He entertained anglers and hatchery visitors from far and wide.

In 1902, the Livingston Manor Ensign newspaper seemed prepared to write the trout farmer’s obituary. “June Smith of Liberty was perhaps fatally injured in a runaway near that village yesterday. The team he was driving became frightened and ran away, throwing him out and breaking both legs. The wagon ran over him, injuring him internally.”

But June Smith, survivor of dozens of fierce southern battles in his youth, was made of tougher stuff. He recovered and lived another 20 years. He passed away in the early 1920s in Liberty and was buried in Arena. When the Pepacton Reservoir was built, June and Adelaide Smith were reinterred in the Sanford Cemetery, Dunraven.

Lost in the Sierras

A sad story of a climber lost in the mountains of California resonated with folks in Middletown more than a century ago.

Kenneth Archibald, the son of Rev. Andrew Archibald, a native of New Kingston and a clergyman, disappeared while on a tramping excursion June 20, 1908.
His remains were found two years later.

On August 5, 1910, the Catskill Mountain News (CMN) reported that Kenneth’s remains and personal effects had been located in Kings River Canyon, Fresno County, CA. The story said young Kenneth had been out with a hunting party of about 15 people when he strayed and became lost. “Every effort was made to find him,” to no avail. An article in the July 27, 1910 issue of the San Francisco Call clarified that Kenneth, 27, was a resident of Berkeley, and a wealthy real estate dealer there. It said he and three companions had gone to the mountains to meet up with a group from the Sierra Club. For some reason, Kenneth wanted to undertake a 41-mile tramp while waiting for the larger group, but the others declined to accompany him, staying behind at a cabin. They never saw their friend again.

A follow-up story in the CMN on August 26, 1910 gave further details of the discovery of Kenneth’s remains, provided by his father, writing from Southwest Harbor, Maine: A Sierra Club group of about 100 people had encamped at Rae Lake in the Kings River region in mid-July. A leader of the group had cautioned about the treacherous terrain of Mt. Rixford at one end of the lake, noting the tragedy that had occurred two years earlier. Some in the party knew Kenneth and had hiked and camped with him.

One of the hikers who had been on the mountain and hadn’t heard the story, “came upon the remains and possessions of someone who had evidently perished there. When he brought back to camp what he had discovered, the others knew the significance of it all.”

A search party was organized to examine the site. They found bones, clothing and other items against a giant boulder 600 feet up the slope from the lake. Kenneth had apparently been caught in a rock slide. Searchers found a notebook, a tin cup and other effects, including a watch with his name on it, given to him by his parents when he was ten years old.

Sierra Club hikers erected a “rude monument of stones in memory of Kenneth.” His brother Cecil traveled to San Francisco to identify the ‘meagre remains,’ which were ultimately interred in New Haven CT. The personal items were sent east to his parents.

Rev. Archibald, born in 1851, was the tenth of 11 children of Robert and Elisabeth Hamilton Archibald. He married Julia Agnes Warren in 1876 in New Haven, CT where their first son, Warren, was born in 1877. Two more sons, Kenneth and Cecil, were born in 1880 and 1881 in Ottumwa, Iowa, where their father was serving as a Congregational minister. Andrew Archibald died in 1926 in Los Angeles.

Seymour Dane, Cowboy and Fruit Farmer

Seymour Dane, Cowboy and Fruit Farmer

Seymour Dane, on the high plains of Montana

He was born in Arena on the East Branch of the Delaware River but he made his fortune raising cattle on the arid high plains of Montana, and ended his days growing oranges in sunny Florida.

This unlikely arc by a man named Seymour Dane makes for an interesting story, one that surfaced in a modest article on page two of the Nov. 21, 1911 Catskill Mountain News. Headlined “To Cruise the US,” the story quoted from a Chicago paper which reported that Seymour Dane, wealthy Montana ranchman, was about to set out from the Chicago River in a 60-foot, 80 hp launch on a seven-year cruise down the Mississippi, into the Gulf of Mexico, to Florida, South America and ultimately to San Francisco.

With him was Leon Kittle, the 20-year-old son of his cousin Wilbur from back home, and another companion, Charles Mead.

We’ll get back to the ‘cruise’ in a bit, but first, who was Seymour Dane?

Born in 1868 he was the son of farmer William Dane, Jr. and Catherine Kittle Dane, who lived in Arena in 1870 with their eight offspring, and William’s 89-year-old Massachusetts-born father. Two of Seymour’s big brothers, Emeritt and Franklin, had served in the Civil War. By 1880 the family had moved to Walton, where 12-year-old Seymour was already working at a local foundry.

How he got to Montana, or why, remains a mystery. But in 1900, he shows up in Malta Township, Valley County, MT, age 31, a single farmer. In 1910, he’s in the Cowan School District of Montana, listing ‘rancher’ as his occupation, still single. (A family history relates that he also owned land in Mexico which was confiscated by the government after a change in administrations there.)

In May of 1905, the Catskill Mountain News reported that Arena native Seymour Dane had been visiting his cousins, Willard and Wilbur Kittle: “He now owns a large ranch in the northern part of Montana, 12 miles from the Canadian border, and owns about 1700 head of cattle, besides a large number of sheep.”

Perhaps a few more years of long winters and hard work on the lonely plains convinced Seymour to sell the cows and buy a boat. For that’s apparently what he did, setting out on the aforementioned “cruise” in November of 1911. They reached Florida as planned, but then love intervened. On the Miami River, they met Felder Lang, who with his brother had a sightseeing boat for tourists. Felder had a daughter Kate, an elementary school teacher. Seymour and Kate hooked up. End of cruise. (Young Leon Kittle evidently returned to New York where he married Bertha Kelly, lived in Denver and died in 1975.)

The Danes were married Dec. 11, 1913, at her parents’ estate, “Inchachee,” which is now Sewell Park near the 17th Avenue Bridge on the Miami River. Seymour and Kate built a home in Miami, and a 40-acre citrus grove in the Redlands, where they raised fruit for 25 years. He reportedly developed new fruit packing and shipping methods that reduced costs and increased consumer confidence in the quality of the produce.

Both Seymour and Kate were very active in community affairs, civic and business organizations, and Republican politics, and though they had no children, he served on the board of education in South Dade. He was very interested in photography and ham radio and had his own workshop for these hobbies. His brother George had found his way to Florida, too, and with wife Mae lived a mile away.

Seymour died in 1933 at the age of 59. A Homestead, FL obituary said death was the result of “an internal ailment of long standing.” A family account says he was killed in a tractor accident in the citrus grove. His wife passed away in 1965 at their Miami home. The Danes are buried in Woodlawn Park Cemetery, Miami.

The graves of his parents and other family members, who were buried in Arena, were disinterred when the Pepacton Reservoir was built. Records indicate they were reburied in New Kingston Valley Cemetery, but an inventory of headstones shows no Danes there. More research is needed.

The other winter sport

The other winter sport

Skiers aren’t the only ones who love winter. Those who hurl heavy balls down long lanes towards meticulously arranged wooden pins brave all kinds of weather to gather at the local bowling alley every week to have some very noisy fun.

Since 1986, Mike Finberg has presided over Margaretville Bowl, the “recreational mecca of the Northeast,” where 120 bowlers in men’s, women’s, mixed and junior leagues roll for individual and team bragging rights from September through April. Except for the addition on the front, the place looks a lot like it did when it opened as Evergreen Lanes in October of 1960.

Hilton Wilbur, proprietor of the Inn-Between Restaurant, designed and built the eight-lane facility across Route 28 from his eatery, convenient for the after-bowling pizza and beer crowd. Dorothy Sanford, his partner in the restaurant, Kate and Orvil Rosa and Bob and Betty Veit were “stockholders” in the business, with the Veits acting as managers. By 1970, the Veits had become sole owners.

But it was not the first bowling alley in Margaretville. Ethel Bussy, in her 1960 history of the village and environs, said that a man named Gray once owned a bowling center on Fair Street. Details are lacking on that, but years later, the Dugan and Tabor Feed Store on Bridge Street, now known as The Granary, current home of Timberland Real Estate office, The Flour Patch and other businesses, once housed a five-lane bowling alley on the second floor.

Second-Floor Lanes

Opened in May of 1945, the Margaretville Bowling Center was owned by a conglomerate of 26 men who put up $12,000 to construct it. Charles Eglinger of Suffern was hired as its first manager under the direction of a committee made up of Everett Herrick, J. R. Weeks and Louis Affron. They must have been pleased to hear that summer that 200 games, at 35 cents a game, were being rolled seven days a week. Ka-ching . . .

Frances “Frisco” Sanford later operated the lanes. The town’s highway superintendent and a New Kingston cauliflower grower, Frisco was known for his amazing strength. He was also a good bowler, an original member of the Masonic bowling team.

Three leagues bowled at the outset of the Bridge Street lanes: the Women’s League; the Suburban League, with teams from Kelly Corners, Dry Brook, Vega and other Margaretville suburbs; and the Organization League, with teams from the fire department, Legion and other groups.

Anna Blish, an avid and award winning bowler, is keeper of the Women’s League’s records all these years later. The minutes from League meetings are full of familiar names. In 1948, Allegra Tomlinson was President, Arral Morgan was VP, Mary Rosa was Secretary and Marie Bussy Treasurer. Twenty women attended the May 6 meeting, and voted to give the previous year’s president, Doris Tuttle, a pressure cooker as a token of thanks. They also voted to levy a nickel fine for every game a person bowled below 100, and 10 cents for games below 80 (new bowlers were exempt until the middle of the season when presumably they would be hitting their stride. . .)

They were generous, though, in dispensing prize money – a total of $68 that year went to Molly Pfarrer, highest average; Chloe Clark, high individual triple, and many more. The awards were presented at the banquet at Kass Inn, where a dinner of ham, sweet potatoes and strawberry shortcake was offered for $2.25 per person.

The leagues belonged to the Delaware-Greene Bowling Association, made up of bowling centers in Windham, Delhi, Walton, Stamford and Margaretville. The level of play was high, and several local bowlers went to regional, state and national tournaments. There were 12 teams in the Women’s League in the 1950-51 season: Internationals were on top, winning 70 and losing 29 games, while Herricks Hustlers won only 31 of the 99 games rolled. In between were Farmall, Mobil Gas, Greene’s Florist, Harold’s Restaurant, Fullers Kandy Kids, Ark-Villa, Faulkners Store, Kass Inn, Stout Craft Motors, and Victory Gals.

The following year there were ten teams, captained by Doris Tuttle, Betty Veit, Mary Todd, Virginia Marks, Lela Maxim, Jackie Robinson, Ruth Dickman, Beatrice Rich, Joan Bouton and Nedra Griffin. That was the year Martha “Mip” Blish, started bowling for Margaretville Telephone where her husband and later their son Bill worked. Deb Hubbell, Ginny Reid and Marion Townsend were also on the team. Mip, bowled for more than 35 years, continuing even after she moved to Florida. With an average somewhere around 180, she was a highly sought sub, and sometimes bowled four times a week.

Pin Setters

Fellow long-time bowler Betty Griffin recalls that Alex Muir was one of the pin setters at the Bridge Street lanes. Alex, brother-in-law to “Frisco” Sanford who ran the place, was a deaf mute. In 1932, he drove his truck into the path of the Red Heifer railroad car because he couldn’t hear it coming. He jumped clear just in time, and survived to age 84. Among his nine sisters was Emma, Frisco’s wife.

Watson “Watty” George was also a pin setter, one of many local youth who got 25 cents a game per lane from tips provided by bowlers. At first the setters would step on a pedal that would raise metal rods at the end of the lane after each bowler’s turn. It was the setter’s job to pick up the wooden pins, which had holes drilled in the bottom, and set them on the rods for the next bowler. Later, a semi-automatic system was developed in which the human setter placed the pins in a mechanical rack which lowered them onto the alley. Either way, it was a lot of bending and lifting. Watty recalls Mary Todd as managing the place in the early 1950s.

The manual pin setting job went the way of the dodo bird when the lanes above the feed store were replaced in 1960 by the Brunswick Automatic Pin Setters at the brand new Evergreen Lanes half a mile down Route 28. Local bowlers welcomed this state of the art facility, which also featured “unitized foul lights, telescorers and hand dryers,” according to the Catskill Mountain News.

Skip Vigars, TV bowling star, came to Evergreen’s grand opening on October 21, 1960, giving an exhibition, free instruction and ball fitting advice.

The Veits worked hard to maintain the center and bought out the other stockholders by 1970. (Founding partner Hilt Wilbur died in 1969.) Hundreds of bowlers made Evergreen their home away from home.

Rolling On…

When Mike Finberg, and boyhood friends Joel Weinberg and Shep Goldstein, bought the alleys from the Veits in 1986, they renamed the place Margaretville Bowl, building a 56 x 16-foot addition with a locker room and game room. The addition was constructed by Clive MacDonald; the signature bowling pin sign, that spun in the breeze from a pole out front, was made by Howard Raab from a single piece of plywood.

After nearly 30 years, Mike has taken a step or two back from the business, letting Tom Miller and Sharon Gavette run Margaretville Bowl. For now, it’s still pretty much the same place where hundreds of bowlers have rolled many thousands of games over the past 54 years. The vibe has appealed to producers of a couple of music videos and an Old Navy commercial looking for that old-is-cool feel.

What they see is what they get, says Mike: “It’s not retro – it’s original.”

BOWLING ALLY PHOTO GALLERY
Click for a larger view of each image…

An ode to the horse

An ode to the horse

The following remembrance , written by George D. Taylor in his 1950 memoir “These Hills are not Barren,” is full of affection and admiration for the animal that kept things running on the family farm before the advent of the tractor. A three-horse team is shown working on the Townsend farm in Bragg Hollow, Halcottsville in this photo from the collection of the late Bernice Spielman. Can anyone explain this piece of equipment?

Born and raised long before the advent of gasoline locomotion, I grew up among horses.

To put it more precisely, I grew up here because of horses. Because, except for them, there would have been no farm to grow up on. It would have been merely a tract of land. In the fairly recent days of my growing up, it was still the horse who provided all the facilities of locomotion for our livelihood and our life. He hauled the stoneboat and the log sled and the sap vat. He drew the plow and the harrow, the seed drill and the planter, the mower and the binder. He evenwalked uphill all day long on the old treadmill to make power for threshing, and for silo filling and wood sawing.

He took us to mill and to market, to church and to school. He brought the doctor to our birth bed in a hurry, and he walked sedately and slowly ahead of the hearse which carried our bodies to the grave. He plunged desperately through the snow up to his ears, on zero winter
days, to deliver his load and his master; and, drenched with sweat from ear tip to fetlock on busy, hot summer days, he stuck to his job till sundown.

He took all the kids on sleigh rides and hay rides. And last, but surely not least, he took his young master courting in the evening dusk; and if, perchance there came a signal to stop in a secluded byway, he stood complacently with his eyes straight ahead, either wise or incurious-or
perhaps both.